you guys. really.....you need to do some turns. You have lost the true feeling of surfing, and that is, doing turns. If the wave isnt powerful enough to push along a shortboard, then it isnt really surfing is it?
funny how that natural, in tune with the wave approiach is described as functinal - which sounds anything but soulful and natuaral. What is shotboard rip and slash approach - difunctional?
Theres nothing functional about surfing. Its a waste of time, serves no function apart from fun/stress relief. Therefore a functional board is one that you're having fun on.
Hey guyz! Surely the most functional thing a surfer can do is pee in his, and, for Jo, not forgetting her, wetsuit. Warms yer cockles, gets rid of the stomach cramp for at least a half hour, and talking of religion, that feeling you get while you're letting it go is definitely transcendental.....why is it always that moment the sneaker set of the day powers through!!??
12 comments:
hows the little 5ft stinger thing
i love that photo
that board looks perfect for the small waves we get around ere'
9'6"-10'0" and 25-30ilbs is perfect for the small waves we get around here.
Looks like Barry is fast losing his english ways and adopting the Aussy Braun effect for the short board.
They'll never get me Wheaty. LOGS 4 LIFE
Dont no what happened to Barry. I hear there was a sudden drop in cabin pressure on his return flight from the UK, might have something to do with it.
Its just his Oaklahoma attitude.
you guys. really.....you need to do some turns. You have lost the true feeling of surfing, and that is, doing turns. If the wave isnt powerful enough to push along a shortboard, then it isnt really surfing is it?
funny how that natural, in tune with the wave approiach is described as functinal - which sounds anything but soulful and natuaral. What is shotboard rip and slash approach - difunctional?
Theres nothing functional about surfing. Its a waste of time, serves no function apart from fun/stress relief. Therefore a functional board is one that you're having fun on.
I thought it was a way of life, even a relgion, jees you mean its all just for fun! Does Frank know this?
Spelling is my (failed) religion – neya mind surfin
It is a religeon, but it's a fun one.
Hey guyz! Surely the most functional thing a surfer can do is pee in his, and, for Jo, not forgetting her, wetsuit. Warms yer cockles, gets rid of the stomach cramp for at least a half hour, and talking of religion, that feeling you get while you're letting it go is definitely transcendental.....why is it always that moment the sneaker set of the day powers through!!??
We don't get to experience the joys of pissing in your wetsuit around these parts.
Post a Comment