Saturday, June 7, 2008

surfer's cross



... used by surfers as a talisman to bring good waves, worn to distinguish the surfer from the rest of society...

... co-opted because young surfers would wear their father's war trophies as an anti-establishment statement...

Saturday, May 24, 2008

To catch a thief


3/4 way through the Miki Dora biography, what a great book. A highly recommended read to all Tube Farmers.
Read the Bunker Spreckels bio last week, another good one.
You couldn't invent characters like these. Seems to me that all the colour and life has been squeezed out of surfing in the last couple of decades.... but thats another story.

Saturday, May 17, 2008

Saturday, May 3, 2008

some log type stuff




????

More surf history from the 30's and 40's



Brit roots






Don't know what all the fuss is about with this alaia business, us Brits have been riding them for a century or two.
Check out .... http://pronetobelly.blogspot.com/